
"I wanted to sit in the desert with the Blue Men — Tuaregs — a once fierce tribe of nomadic Berbers who’d drifted back and forth between Yemen and Morocco for centuries, raiding caravans, disembowelling travellers, and eating whole lamb in their desert camps. I wanted to squat in the desert beneath the stars, eating the fat of the lamb with my fingers. I wanted to smoke hashish under a brightly swollen moon, leaning against my camel.
It all happened at a Tuareg encampment, several hours’ camel ride into the Sahara. In no time, I was fully in the spirit of things, banging on the drums with my blue pals, rolling a fat blunt, watching as one of the tribe rubbed my whole lamb with onion, pepper and salt, then wired it to a long pole. Assisted by two others, they hoisted my dinner on to their shoulders and walked to the smouldering, volcano-like mud oven.
Sizzling hot, the lamb had been roasted crispy and straight through. The chef made a quick motion with his dagger and lifted free a dismayingly large testicle from the lamb’s crotch. With some ceremony, and a few appreciative smiles from around the table, he deposited the crispy, veiny object in front of me, then sat down and helped himself to a thick slab off the other nut. I, God help me, tore off a sizable piece of gonad and popped it in my mouth.
It was sensational. Tender, even fluffy, with a subtle lamb flavour less intense than shoulder or leg; the whole experience, the chewing and swallowing, was reminiscent of sweetbreads. It was certainly the best testicle I’d ever had in my mouth. Also the first, I should hasten to say. I enjoyed every bite. It was delicious. Delightful. I’d do it again in a hot second. If I served it to you at a restaurant, as long as you didn’t know what it was, if I called it, say, “Pavé d’agneau maroc,” you’d love it. You’d come back for more."
Grande!
RispondiEliminaHe's back!
Però mi deluse la sua brasserie...
Pero'. Bravo Anthony.
RispondiElimina